What do you brew beer in at a brewery?

I sometimes wonder how breweries handle large-scale production. I see those shiny tanks and wonder about their names and functions.

Breweries brew beer in mash tuns and brew kettles. These vessels process grains, water, and hops before the wort moves on to fermentation tanks.

I find it useful to break down what happens inside these vessels and why they matter. Brewers start with a mash tun, where grains mix with hot water to extract sugars. The mash tun is built to maintain stable temperatures, usually between 148°F and 158°F, depending on the style. This vessel often has a false bottom or screens to separate the sweet liquid from the spent grains. After the mash rests for about an hour, the brewer lauters, drawing off the sugary wort. The leftover grains can become animal feed or be used in other ways.

The wort then goes to the brew kettle, sometimes called a boiler or copper in traditional texts. Here, I see a rolling boil that sterilizes the wort. Brewers add hops at different times. Early additions give bitterness, while late additions give aroma. The boil may last 60 minutes or longer. Some breweries use a whirlpool after the boil to gather hop and protein solids in the center, leaving clearer wort that goes to the next stage.

Next, the hot wort must be cooled. Many setups use a heat exchanger to drop the temperature from near boiling to yeast-pitching levels. The type of heat exchanger varies. Plate chillers are popular for their efficiency, but some breweries prefer tube or counterflow designs. Once the wort is cooled, it enters a fermentation tank.

Below is a table showing how these vessels relate to each step:

Step	Vessel or Equipment	Main Function	Typical Duration
Mashing	Mash Tun	Convert starches to sugars	~60 minutes
Lautering	Mash Tun (False Bottom)	Separate wort from grains	~30 minutes
Boiling	Brew Kettle	Sterilize wort, add bitterness	60–90 minutes
Whirlpool	Brew Kettle (whirlpool)	Clarify wort after boil	10–20 minutes
Chilling	Heat Exchanger	Cool wort for fermentation	Depends on system design

I enjoy seeing these stages in action because it reminds me of the art and science behind brewing. Each vessel, from mash tun to brew kettle, is built for a specific job. If one stage fails, the final product can suffer. High-end breweries often invest in sophisticated heating controls, agitation systems, and advanced measurement tools to keep each step consistent. Some even automate these processes with computerized controls that track temperature, flow rate, and hop additions. Others prefer a manual approach that gives the brewer hands-on interaction with every stage. Regardless of scale, these core vessels remain vital. They turn water and grain into a sugary liquid that can become beer through fermentation. This is how breweries handle their core brewing operations.

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What equipment is needed to start brewing beer?

I look back on my first attempts at brewing. I only had a big pot, some basic tools, and excitement. I soon realized there is a short list of must-have gear.

To start brewing beer, you need a brew kettle, fermenters, an airlock, a thermometer, a hydrometer, and cleaning supplies. This setup helps you go from wort creation to fermentation.

I think about the core items one needs, whether brewing at home or launching a small craft operation. At the simplest level, you need a brew kettle. For homebrewers, a large stainless steel pot can work. In a commercial setting, that pot becomes a specialized brew kettle with temperature gauges and possibly built-in filtration. The goal is to boil the wort, sterilize it, and incorporate hops.

Fermenters are also essential. A basic plastic bucket with an airlock might do for very small batches. Larger setups use stainless conical fermenters, which allow trub and yeast to settle at the bottom. This conical shape makes it easier to remove sediment. Some fermenters have glycol jackets for precise temperature control. Temperature is key to consistent fermentation, so advanced breweries invest in chillers or glycol systems to keep each fermenter at the right level.

A thermometer is basic but critical. Temperature affects mash enzyme activity, hop extraction, and yeast performance. A small difference in temperature can change the beer’s body or flavor. A hydrometer (or refractometer) measures sugar content. This helps me track how well the mash converted starches to sugars, and how well the yeast is fermenting over time. Cleaning supplies, like sanitizers, are vital too. If I skip proper cleaning, bacterial contamination can ruin a batch. I see many new brewers underestimate the importance of cleaning steps.

Below is a sample table that outlines core equipment:

Equipment	Purpose	Example Uses	Approximate Cost Range
Brew Kettle	Boil wort, add hops	Small pot or large kettle	\$50–\$1,000+ (size-based)
Fermenter	House fermentation, control temperature	Plastic bucket or steel tank	\$30–\$3,000+
Airlock and Stopper	Release CO2, keep air out	Seals fermenter	\$5–\$20
Thermometer	Monitor mash and boil temps	Digital or analog	\$10–\$50
Hydrometer/Refractometer	Measure sugar levels	Check gravity	\$10–\$60
Sanitizer (e.g., Starsan)	Prevent contamination	Clean surfaces, gear	\$15–\$30

I discovered that the cost range can vary based on scale and brand. A homebrew kettle might be cheaper, while a commercial-grade system costs much more. The same logic applies to fermenters, which can range from plastic to stainless conicals with advanced temperature control. Despite these differences, the basic functions remain. You need something to boil in, something to ferment in, tools to measure temperature and gravity, and cleaning agents to keep it all sanitary.

In my experience, it’s best to start with decent quality gear that fits your budget. If I buy extremely cheap equipment, I might face frustrations like warping pots or failing seals. That said, I don’t need the most expensive gear to begin. Many brewers upgrade incrementally. They might start with an entry-level kettle, then add a better fermenter, then later introduce a wort chiller or a pump. The key is to ensure each part of the process is covered, from heating the wort to maintaining a clean environment for fermentation.

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What are brewery tanks called?

I see big stainless vessels in breweries. I hear terms like bright tank, unitank, or fermenter. I wonder if they all do the same thing or if they serve different roles.

Brewery tanks include mash tuns, boil kettles, fermentation tanks, bright tanks, and sometimes unitanks. Each tank has a special function in the brewing process.

I like to categorize these tanks by the specific step they handle. A mash tun or lauter tun is where I combine grains and water for the mash, then run off the wort. A boil kettle is not always called a tank, but it’s a large vessel for boiling. A fermentation tank, sometimes called a fermenter, is where yeast converts sugars into alcohol. These tanks can be cylindrical conical fermenters (CCVs). They often have a cone at the bottom for capturing yeast and trub. Brewers can harvest yeast from that cone for reuse.

A bright tank is a finishing vessel where the beer clarifies and carbonates before packaging. If I want to add forced carbonation, I often do it in the bright tank. A brewer can also condition the beer in this vessel, letting it mature and become stable. Some breweries skip a separate bright tank and do a secondary in their fermenters. Others prefer distinct bright tanks that keep the process more efficient.

I have also seen unitanks, which are conical vessels that can do both fermentation and conditioning in the same tank. This design saves space and transfers, and it can reduce oxygen pickup. Unitanks have special valves and ports for adding hops, removing yeast, and controlling carbonation. They also have pressure ratings so they can handle carbonation within the same vessel.

Here is a table that sums up the main tanks:

Tank Name	Main Purpose	Additional Features	Common Materials
Mash Tun	Mash grains, extract sugars	False bottom, stirring mechanism	Stainless steel
Boil Kettle	Boil wort, add hops	Heating system, possible whirlpool	Stainless steel or copper
Fermentation Tank	Conduct fermentation	Temperature jackets, cone bottom	Stainless steel
Bright Tank	Clarify, carbonate finished beer	Pressure rating, carb stone	Stainless steel
Unitank	Both ferment and condition	Pressure rating, multiple ports	Stainless steel

I appreciate how each tank fits into a stage of brewing. Without a mash tun, you can’t convert starches to sugars. Without a fermenter, you can’t transform wort into beer. Without a bright tank or conditioning vessel, your beer might stay hazy or under-carbonated. The specific choice of tanks depends on scale, budget, and brew process. Some breweries merge functions to save cost or space. Others separate them to optimize throughput and maintain consistent quality. I enjoy seeing how each brewery configures its tank lineup in a unique way to match its production goals.

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What are the 4 main brewing ingredients in beer?

I recall hearing that beer is mostly water, malt, hops, and yeast. I want to see why these four stand out and how they shape the end result.

The four main brewing ingredients are water, malted grains, hops, and yeast. They work together to form beer’s flavor, aroma, and alcohol content.

I like to examine how each ingredient affects the finished beer. Water is usually overlooked, but it makes up the majority of the beer’s volume. Different water profiles suit different styles. Hard water with higher sulfate levels can accentuate hop bitterness. Soft water can enhance delicate flavors in lagers. Brewers can adjust their water by adding salts or using reverse osmosis systems. I find that water chemistry can be the trickiest area for new brewers, but a little knowledge can dramatically improve consistency.

Malted grains, especially barley, provide the starches that turn into fermentable sugars. These grains also determine color and body. Pale malt sets the base for many styles, while caramel or roasted malts add color and specific flavors like caramel, chocolate, or coffee. During the mash, enzymes in the malt break down starches into simpler sugars. The types of grains used can change the entire character of the brew. I sometimes experiment with wheat or rye to get new textures and tastes.

Hops bring bitterness, flavor, and aroma. The variety of hops can add floral, citrus, pine, or fruity notes. Hop timing is key: an early addition during the boil extracts bitterness, while a late addition or dry hop emphasizes aroma. The alpha acid content in hops determines how bitter the beer can become. If I want a bold IPA, I choose high-alpha hops and add them generously. For a mild ale, I dial back the amount.

Yeast is the final puzzle piece that transforms sweet wort into beer. Yeast metabolizes sugars to produce alcohol and CO2. Different yeast strains create different flavor profiles. Ale yeasts can generate fruity esters, while lager yeasts ferment at cooler temperatures for a cleaner taste. Yeast health is vital. If the yeast is underpitched or stressed, off-flavors can appear. Oxygenation at the start of fermentation, plus nutrients, helps the yeast remain strong.

Here is a table outlining these core ingredients:

Ingredient	Role	Impact on Beer	Key Variables
Water	Base liquid	Minerals affect taste, pH	Hardness, pH, sulfate
Malted Grains	Provide sugars and color	Body, color, malt flavor	Type of grain, roast level
Hops	Add bitterness, aroma	Bitterness, aroma compounds	Alpha acids, timing
Yeast	Ferment sugars into alcohol/CO2	Flavor profile, attenuation	Strain type, health

I see how these four pillars form the basis of beer. Changing any one of them can dramatically shift the brew’s character. If I swap Pilsner malt for a roasted barley, I get a dark, roasty profile. If I pick a fruity English yeast instead of a clean lager yeast, I get a more robust ester presence. If I add a big late hop addition, I transform a simple pale ale into a hop-forward IPA. This interplay makes brewing fascinating. Mastering these four ingredients allows me to create endless variations, from crisp lagers to bold stouts to hazy IPAs. I love how these building blocks let us craft an infinite range of beers.

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Conclusion

Brewers need the right gear, the right tanks, and the right ingredients. I think these pieces all come together to create the many beers we enjoy.